Wine is bottled poetry.
–Robert Louis Stevenson

Sometimes it takes a crazy idea to get something started—an off-the-wall idea like growing wine grapes in Vermont—the land of milk and maple and cheese–but certainly never wine grapes in a climate with such short summers and long, frigid winters.

Enter Harrison and Molly Lebowitz who, in 1996 founded Snow Farm Vineyard, in South Hero, Vermont’s first commercial vineyard and grape winery, and who have been successfully producing notable wines ever since. Transplanted from New York in 1989, they were seeking a way to realize their dream of preserving a piece of the beautiful Vermont landscape while making a living—even though neither had a background in agriculture. “We didn’t have a clue,” says Harrison. They quickly became self-educated in the ways of agriculture and viticulture and worked with the state to develop legislation friendly to the production and distribution of Vermont wines. It was an entirely new concept.

David Boyden of Boyden Valley Winery.

Although there were successful fruit-wine wineries, including North River Winery in Quechee, the only Vermont wine grape vineyards at the time were of the backyard hobby variety. The state didn’t have any regulations for grape wineries in place except to tell the Lebowitz’s that they couldn’t sell their wine to the public. The Lebowitz’s, and fellow vintners who saw a future for the new industry became trailblazers and advocates. Their efforts resulted in regulations favorable to commercial wineries and eventually resulted in the formation of the Vermont Grape and Wine Council in 2007. In announcing the formation of the Council, Richard Allbee, Secretary of the Vermont Agency of Agriculture, deemed the emerging Vermont Wine Industry “a great example of the continuing evolution and diversification of Vermont’s agricultural heritage and landscape.”

New Breed

Vermont currently has 14 wineries and numerous non-winery vineyards of varying sizes that grow and sell their grapes. While Vermont does not seem the ideal climate for grapes, with its harsh winters and unpredictable summers, Vermont viticulturists work with and around the vagaries of our climate and plan accordingly. In most cases grapes grow best when they are located on a slope to increase sun exposure. Moisture and frost can drain downhill, away from the vines, and breezes help to keep the vines dry and free of rot and mildew.

But even so, why are grapes suddenly growing so well in Vermont? Is it global warming that’s creating a more hospitable environment? No, actually it is the development of cold-hardy grapes being developed and continually refined in an equally inhospitable environment at the University of Minnesota, such as the red Marquette and Frontenac, and white La Crescent and Frontenac Gris. Vermont vineyards are using these grapes to blend some spectacular wines with a crisp “new world” flavor. Most Vermont vineyards are heavily or entirely planted with these sturdy wine grape cultivars and have had very successful results.

Harrison Lebowitz of Snow Farm Vineyard.

Kenneth and Gail Albert and partner Scott Prom, of Shelburne Vineyard, grow these cold-hardy varietals to produce their award winning wines. The Alberts harvested their first grape crop in 2000 and today, in what Kenneth terms their second year of serious retail, they produce about 15,000 bottles a year. Their location near the shores of Lake Champlain provides an ideal climate since the lake regulates the temperature and provides a slightly more temperate environment and a marginally longer growing season. This spring they opened their brand new winery and tasting facility on Route 7 in Shelburne and will soon have all their wine making and bottling equipment under one roof. Like most Vermont wine vineyards, the Alberts also buy a portion of their grapes from other sources, allowing them to use varieties that can’t be home- grown and then blend them with their own hardy varietals. “Our role is to educate people to new varieties, “ says Kenneth. “Blending is part of the art.” Shelburne Vineyard also has the distinction of being a certified organic grower since 2000 and their new facility is LEED certified by the U.S. Green Building Council.

Grapes aren’t the only fruit Vermont Vineyards transform into wine. Boyden Valley Winery in Cambridge has produces a line of fine grape wine and but also has a very popular line of wines made from cranberry, blueberry, rhubarb and one that is a combination of maple and apple. Boyden Valley’s location is not as temperate as some vineyards, but says David Boyden, they do a lot of ice wines, which he calls “nectar of the gods.” Ice wine and Vermont are made for each other because it requires the grapes to freeze on the vine before being harvested. The resulting wine is high in sugar content with a concentrated, sweet flavor. Frozen grapes produce less wine, which is reflected in the price, but it makes a wonderful dessert wine.

Kenneth and Gail Albert of Shelburne Vineyard.

The Boyden family is good example of Vermonter’s preserving their family land and prospering through diversification. Their fourth generation dairy farm remains a family run business but now, instead of a dairy herd, it features the vineyard, winery and tasting facility, Boyden Farm Vermont Grown Meats, and maple products.

Vermont’s wine growers see a bright future ahead, and some are hoping to have a Vermont Wine Trail eventually. They are marketing their products to tourists and locals alike through tastings and tours. Some hold wine parings, and wine and cheese tastings and other events. Vermont wines recently got some national coverage when NBC visited the state this past February and featured Strawberry Rhubarb wine from Grandview Winery in East Calais.

Alice Dubenetsky lives in a Starksboro farmhouse with her husband, Dan, two children, and an assortment of house pets and livestock.